Winster 1821: Village doctor William Cuddie upsets local toffs the Brittlebanks by dating their daughter Mary. Her brother, also called William, challenges Cuddie to a duel and shoots him. Cuddie dies a few hours later and Brittlebank jumps bail before disappearing into thin air, never to be seen again. Fast forward 200 years and things are a lot quieter in this ever popular village little more than three miles west of Matlock but I’m tooled up just to be on the safe side as I leave the car park at the top of East Bank and head uphill to the main road.
Go almost straight across, to the right of the Ore House pictured above, and then pretty much immediately right onto the Limestone Way where you’re probably at the high point of the walk in terms of altitude and consequently in a good position to take in the terrific view north towards the mast on Eyam Edge before panning right to the one much closer on Stanton Moor.
Take a sharp right after nearly half a mile on a field path signposted Winster. It goes straight across the B road and skirts Oddo, home to the Brittlebanks back in the day. Feel free to hiss as you walk past, they won’t see you courtesy of high hedges. The path takes you straight into the churchyard where the unfortunate medic is buried next to a yew bush (pictured below). His old home where he was shot is behind the high wall.
Head down the main street past the shop. Winster was once the county’s 4th biggest population centre courtesy of lead mining cash. Now home to just 600 people or so, its affluent history means it’s also home to a few dozen listed buildings. It’s well worth a good snoop around to take in its charms, not least the old Market House (the first property to be acquired by the National Trust in the Peak District) although it’s only open in the warmer months and is closed until further notice for vital maintenance work.
Darley Dale and East Moor from east edge of Winster.
Take the path on the left just after the school, enjoying the views across Darley Dale to East Moor before you drop down to the stream. Aim diagonally right and you’ll eventually land at a picket fence in the far corner of a field by the woods. Enjoy your half-mile amble along a stream (some bits are muckier than others but I’m sure it’s nothing that you can’t handle) before starting to climb as the path turns into a rough forest track heading in the same direction.
Path back to Winster from Uppertown Lane.
Fork left just after a big metal gate blocking the track, then bear left again – ignoring the grand entrance to Sabine Hay – to virtually double back on yourself and start a slightly more rigorous climb through Clough Wood. It levels out after about 400 yards leaving you an easier stroll. Go right at a squeezer stile at a crossroads of paths just before you get to Uppertown Farm then left through another after about 150 yards. Stick to the field edge and the path will drop you down to the edge of Birchover.
Bank House.
Very much the poor relation compared to its near neighbour across the valley, Birchover will nonetheless continue to draw the crowds due to its proximity to Stanton Moor and Rowtor Rocks. It’s also got a few benches opposite the Red Lion if you’re wanting to refuel although that might be considered unnecessary given that you’ve only got a good mile to go. If not, take a left down Uppertown Lane and head straight on where it turns hard right to follow a path that’s admirably assisted by paving stones laid by lead miners.
Winster from near top of West Bank.
You’ll emerge on Woodhouse Lane and could go virtually straight across the Main Street onto East Bank to head back to base. Instead, take a right then left up West Bank. Halfway up you’ll find Bank House where the duel took place 200 years ago. It’s now a holiday let where you could re-enact the drama while making sure that you turn the tables so the toff takes the hit.
Start: Car park at top of East Bank, Winster
Highlight: Level stretch between Limestone Way and Winster church.
Lunch: Benches and pubs in Winster and Birchover. The Miners Standard near the car park is good, so is The Druid in Birchover.
Music: Thirty years since Freddie Mercury’s untimely demise, here’s You’re My Best Friend.
Distance/map: 6.3 miles. OS Explorer OL24 The Peak District/White Peak Area.
One last thing: Not tooled up, obviously.
OS © Crown copyright [2021] CS-29042-R6R3Z6
Walks with welf 