Unless you’ve been living under a rock and failed to notice that there’s a bit of a bug going round, you’ve probably happened to see that it’s 250 years since Sir Richard Arkwright turned Cromford into one of the most significant centres of the Industrial Revolution by building the world’s first water-powered cotton mill. The village is now a magnet for tourists, the northern gateway of the Derwent Valley Mills UNESCO World Heritage Site (currently celebrating its 20th anniversary) and at the heart of some excellent walking country.
View of Riber Castle near start of walk.
I’ve parked in the lay-by just outside Black Rocks to make the most of the area’s charms. Head past the cafe, up to the High Peak Trail then follow the sign for Cromford at the end of the car park. Drop through the woods then pause for a moment when you emerge to take in the glorious view up the Derwent valley. Riber Castle is straight ahead. Far below on the banks of the river is Willersley Castle, built by Arkwright but not completed until after his death in 1792.
Cromford pond.
Turn right to follow the drystone wall then left to go down the lane opposite a row of cottages. Take the path on your right just after Holly Cottage where the lane levels out. Head down the ginnel to the main road then join another path on your right about half a dozen houses further on. It takes you past the end of North Street, built by Arkwright for his workforce. Bear left opposite the school to head back to the B road.
Go straight over onto the Via Gellia and take five to enjoy the classic shot of Cromford across the pond to Scarthin Books. Turn right after the pond to double back into the village then go left and left again, up the A6 towards Matlock for a few yards then through the grand gates pictured above to head down Church Walk. You’ll find a few Arkwrights buried at the back of the church. Head straight over the road onto Cromford Meadows then double back at the toilet block to see the end of the canal (pictured below) before heading back over the road into the mill complex.
You can pay for a tour but it’s otherwise free to wander round which you’ve got to admit is pretty good in a place like this. Take a right as you head in to climb Scarthin Rock. The path is a bit overgrown which suggests that not too many of the thousands of people who visit this historic gem every year can be bothered to venture up there which is a shame because it provides great views of Willersley Castle and the mills before you join the crowds and take in the rest of the attractions.
Willersley Castle from Scarthin Rock.
When you’ve had your fill, make your way back to the road and turn right for the village. Go left just after a small car park then take a right up a path that leads you to the A6. Head straight over onto Intake Lane and take the path on your right opposite Castle View Drive. Just before the end of the third field take an unmarked path on your left that doubles back to head up the hill. Aim to the right of a rocky outcrop then go right at a drystone wall up a broad grassy path to the High Peak Trail.
The mill complex.
It’s a bit of a climb but don’t tell me you weren’t expecting it after all that downhill stuff at the start. The good news is it’s then a level half-mile stroll back to the start. There’s still time to head for Cromford before the landmark anniversary celebrations are over but if not, don’t feel as though you’ve got to wait another quarter of a millennium before you get round to visiting this splendid spot.
Start: Unnamed road outside Black Rocks.
Highlight: Suppose it ought to be the mill complex – largely saved from demolition by volunteers – but the downhill stroll to Cromford is pretty good.
Lunch: Cafe at the mill. Plenty of other options in Cromford.
Music: Twenty years since Stuart Adamson’s death aged just 43, here’s In A Big Country.
Distance/map: 5.3 miles. OS Explorer OL24 The Peak District/White Peak Area.
OS © Crown copyright [2021] CS-29042-R6R3Z6
Walks with welf 