South Head was no doubt a devilishly handsome hill long before someone had the bright idea of building a drystone wall up the ridge on its southern flanks. It’s now an iconic sight as you drive north on the awesome A road from Chapel-en-le-Frith to Glossop. There’s a great view as you swing right under the railway bridge on the edge of Chinley to whet your appetite before you embark on this banging there-and-backer.
I’ve parked at the top of Maynestone Road opposite Peep-O-Day Farm just south of Hayfield where a ‘moderate’ southwesterly wind is blowing me in the right direction four days before Christmas. Head down the road towards Hayfield for 100 yards or so then turn right at the track, right again at the Pennine Bridleway signposted South Head and fork left a bit further on.
You’ll land at the sign for South Head pictured above about half a mile later. You’ll also see from the map that you can skirt the hill but just think what you could be missing out on. Go on, get your backside up there. Look back down the path you’ve just climbed up and across to Mount Famine when you reach the cairn at the summit. You’ll be going up there in a couple of hours or so. Pan right for Kinder Low pictured behind the crazy guy who’s just pushed his bike to the top.
Head back down the hill, across the bridleway and swing right to follow the path next to the tumbledown drystone wall on a two-mile gently uphill trundle across the moor, assisted by a fair few of those helpful flagstones reclaimed from cotton mills. Fork right at the cairn below Edale Rocks pictured above to pick up the path along the southern edge of Kinder Scout.
You should get a bit of shelter at Pym Chair whichever direction the wind’s blowing in but if you sit at the east end you’ll have the incredible collection of weather sculpted boulders called Woolpacks spread out in front of you with the cement works chimney at Bradwell beyond, peeping out from behind the Great Ridge. As well as most of Derbyshire.
Path up Mount Famine.
When you’ve had your fill of the panorama, pull your gloves on and your zips up to head into the wind and retrace your steps. Aim to the left of Edale Rocks and you can’t go wrong. As you skirt South Head, go up the path pictured above to ascend Mount Famine from where Manchester is glowing in the mid afternoon winter sunshine. It’s a bit precarious descending but the path suggests plenty of people manage it so you should be OK. Turn left at the bridleway to head back to base.
Start: Peep-O-Day Farm. There’s a bigger lay-by just down the main road towards Chapel if the first choice parking spot is full.
Highlight: Views from South Head, Mount Famine or Pym Chair. Not an easy choice.
Lunch: Pack-up at Pym Chair.
Song: Twenty years since the release of Morrissey’s 7th album, You Are The Quarry, here’s First Of The Gang To Die.
Distance/map: Nine miles. OS Explorer OL1 The Peak District/Dark Peak Area.
OS © Crown copyright [2024]. CS-29042-R6R3Z6
Walks with welf 
Just returned from a few days in Castleton and found Mount Famine, skirted round the side of it on the Pennine Bridleway and climbed up and down some fiendish stoney paths. The views are amazing from anywhere there, including Kinder Low. Not yet got as far as Woolpacks but it’s a plan for next year.
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Definitely worth the effort, love it up there.
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